From undergarment to clothing, how does the corset reinvent itself?

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Long seen as a symbol of oppression, the corset is making a comeback, but in a new light. We explain how this vintage undergarment has become a weapon of power.

Corset, a look back at this shaping lingerie

Initially worn by dandies and soldiers to give themselves a charismatic and respected look, the corset quickly found its way under women’s skirts. It is true that throughout history, this lingerie has been the subject of controversy. Historians are divided, some see it as the constraint of societal sexism, others as an accessory of femininity.

However, the purpose of wearing a corset was to shape and mold the body to meet the aesthetic standards of the time. Thus, during the Renaissance, where the corset originated, women’s organs and ribs were compressed under this rigid structure made of whalebone, mother-of-pearl, or steel. The idea was to support the body, thereby offering a graceful and upright silhouette. In reality, the corset flattened the curves and the chest, and any signs of opulence were deliberately hidden.

Throughout the ages, this undergarment continued to evolve, further shaping the human physique. There are numerous variations, from the long corset falling on the hips to the shorter and more fitted basque, the corset in its various forms represents its time.

When underwear takes precedence

Starting from the 1990s, two great fashion geniuses breathed new life into this rigid shell. In doing so, they reaffirmed the position of women. This stroke of genius or sewing marked a turning point in the history of the corset. From an undergarment that stifled identity and represented confinement, the corset became an ostentatious piece symbolizing an emancipated woman, becoming a weapon of power for those who wear it.

It is thanks to the convictions and avant-garde spirit of these two designers that this renaissance took place. In 1990, Vivienne Westwood presents her autumn/winter 1900-1991 collection. The centerpiece? A corset with a baroque print inspired by one of François Boucher’s paintings, “The Sleeping Shepherdess.” By printing this oil painting on this series of corsets, the British designer frees sexuality and brilliantly twists the codes of eroticism and history.

Another interpretation, Jean Paul Gaultier also reinvents the corset in his own universe, with exuberant chic. Thus, the “cone corset” becomes emblematic. Beyond the pronounced lines and geometric shapes, this rebellious lingerie becomes an expression of a strong, liberated, and sexual woman.

Since then, the corset has become a couture garment that is worn on top rather than underneath. It is proudly displayed rather than hidden. With rounded and conical lines, a play of textures and materials, everything is designed to embrace the curves of a woman, highlighting the chest and the buttocks. As a truly daring piece, the corset challenges conventions and finally affirms a woman’s sexuality.

Corset, the fashion garment of modern times

With constant evolution, the image of this iconic garment has been transformed. The corset has gone from being an almost torturous accessory to a haute couture piece that characterizes the empowered woman. Thus, famous fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Etro, Burberry or Dolce & Gabbana bring back this famous epic piece.

Today, the corset is presented as a belt that emphasizes the waist or as an elegant bustier worn directly on the skin under a fitted jacket. As a true reinvention, it is showcased on the catwalks as an outer garment rather than underwear. However, in a more sensual and intimate context, it is still possible to wear the corset as underwear.

On Instagram, influencers show off their corsets and receive a flurry of likes. Indeed, the popularity of this garment is skyrocketing. Baroque and a bit nonchalant, these fashionistas do not hesitate to appropriate it to mark their difference. The contrast of this wasp-waisted heritage is appealing. It remains to be seen how far this iconic piece will be reinvented.

Modalova, a fresh look at fashion.