Meeting the Kimono at the Quai Branly Museum

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The kimono, both traditional and sensual, is currently being celebrated at the Musée du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac. Running until May 28, the exhibition takes us on a journey to discover this garment and to engage with Japanese culture. The kimono reveals, through its folds, the art of dyeing, embroidery, but also the articulation of society across eras and its changes. A piece that conveys much, a symbol of tradition and liberation, it also serves as a visual iconography that continues to inspire creators, even today. Join us as we reflect on our visit, along with a small selection of pieces on display.

A privileged encounter with Japanese art

Today, I escaped to distant lands, yearning to avoid the cold. I made my way to the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac, heading towards Japan, to explore the kimono and its history, which I realized I knew very little about.

Often used today as a homewear piece, part of the lingerie range, we also wear the garment in the summer as a beach kimono version. Alternatively, it can be reimagined in a shorter version, resembling a jacket that retains its iconic folds. The other aspect we associate with it is that of the traditional Japanese garment, which has primarily been transmitted to us through photographs and, more significantly, films. However, although everyone knows the kimono by its familiar appearance across various cultures, few truly know its history and the evolution it has undergone.

Thus, a complete immersion into another universe awaited me at the museum. A stroll of nearly 2 hours, among kimonos more sumptuous than the last, clothing or beauty accessories adorned with meticulous details, painted works and collections of kimono drawings (hinagata), and other elements of furniture and decoration that highlight the art and influence of the Japanese piece. Immersed in darkness, we are fascinated by the colors, patterns, and golden inserts that take over the fabrics, all expressed in poetry and delicacy.

We experience a meeting with the piece, feeling privileged, especially since Asian fashion is rarely represented in current exhibitions. With wide eyes fixed on the fabrics, we discover how the piece has marked the history of Japan and, in turn, how Japan’s history has evolved the piece.

This complementarity and dual reading is where the exhibition draws its richness.

The kimono: a portrait of society through the ages

The exhibition came to fruition thanks to the work of curators Anna Jackson and Josephine Rout, respectively the chief curator and curator of the Asia department at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. We thus discover a marriage of period pieces from the London museum, alongside treasures from private and public collections, pieces from contemporary designers, and kimonos made especially for the occasion.

Our encounter with the kimono begins in the Edo period, around 1603, when the piece, which means “the thing one wears on oneself”, first emerged on the scene. A symbol of luxury and highlighting one’s social rank, the wearing of the piece, primarily by merchants, was notably emphasized by celebrities and courtesans of the early 18th century, belonging to the world of entertainment and the eroticism of Edo (Tokyo), referred to as “the floating world”.

The second part of the visit takes us to the late 19th century, to the Meiji period, marking the end of the Shogun’s reign (military leader of the country). A moment when production shifted from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo), and the kimono exported to the rest of the world, bringing it global notoriety. This also propagated the influence of the piece on indoor clothing or decorative elements (tea sets, vases…).

We conclude with the period following World War II, up to the present day. In this period, the wearing of the kimono has become restricted to official events. The piece transitions between a relationship with the past and tradition, facing a more modernized use in pop culture. This can be seen in fashion designers worldwide, as well as in artistic works such as films or musical events.

A connected history

This journey allows us to discover, on one hand, the evolution of the piece over the years. Between cuts, sleeve lengths, colors, materials, techniques used, patterns and their arrangements, inspirations and references (between the Tale of Ise and the Tale of Genji), styles, sizes, and wearing of the Obi (belt), the accessorization of the kimono, and the different layers… We observe the entire history of the piece through a creative lens that resonates with a more anthropological perspective.

Indeed, the evolution of the kimono is inseparable from the very evolution of society. The piece reflects the desires of the classes of the time and their intrinsic relationships. But also the evolution and deployment of fashion in Japanese cities, the laws established by the regime, and the influences of public figures. The Japanese relationship with the piece, the occasions to wear it, and to whom it was intended… The textile has adapted to the evolving needs and desires of both the Japanese people and the rest of the world over the years.

We travel back in time, moving from a scene highlighting merchants in search of new fabrics in the Suruga cho district, to a wedding scene with an exchange of kimonos and colors. We experience immersion in floating scenes, or in the pleasure district, Yoshiwara, where courtesans dressed in kimonos were fashion icons. This influence is also present in the backstage of kabuki theater.

Next, we come face to face with a photo of Ziggy Stardust, the alter ego of David Bowie, wrapped in a kimono, alongside another that belonged to Freddie Mercury. Nearby, we discover a model reinterpreted by Alexander McQueen, one designed for Dior by John Galliano, a dress version, and even outfits used in Star Wars: Episode III – Revenge of the Sith…

A fascinating path, where we rediscover both the kimono and Japanese society from a new perspective. It makes us feel all the research, encounters, and travels necessary for the curators to create this captivating exhibition that I highly recommend.

How to wear the kimono in current fashion?

Long associated with luxury, the kimono has, over the years, been rethought in more affordable materials like cotton. Having spread worldwide, its use has primarily slipped into nightwear, utilizing satin fabrics. However, we also see it persist in pieces worn daily, or as cover-ups for the beach.

Contemporary designers have reworked it to adapt to different styles and cultures. By altering cuts, lengths, sleeve shapes, approaches to the belt, transparency effects, ornamentation techniques, and patterns… Presenting themselves as pieces belonging to both women’s and men’s wardrobes. We can observe kimonos designed with wax fabrics, or featuring the paisley pattern, others play on a more baby doll side with candy pink tweed. The straight cut and the crossing of the front panels generally remain faithful to traditional models. However, the sleeves are less imposing, and the belt is modernized and slim, contrasting with the usual Obi.

If the kimono enchants you, good news, we’ve found a few on Modalova!

The short kimono jacket for women

As a piece easier to integrate into an outfit, short-cut kimonos can replace a jacket, adding dimension to the silhouette and outfit.

The long model

Embracing the characteristic length of most Edo-period kimonos, current pieces remain shorter yet very airy, reminiscent of the summer kimonos that were worn back then.

The men’s jacket

On the men’s side, we observe mainly short and straight cuts. With a very minimalist fastening system, when there is one. Some models add Asian influences through patterns and prints, rather than adhering to the traditional form of the piece.

The lingerie rayon kimono for women

The pieces often respect the crossing of the panels and the presence of a collar. The sleeves feature a certain span, more or less faithful, while the belt has drastically slimmed for added sensuality.

The men’s bathrobe, kimono inspiration

Bathrobes designed like kimonos have appeared since the export of the piece to the rest of the world. We have seen cultural mixes giving birth to these indoor pieces.

You have until May 28 to discover the exhibition, enjoy your visit!