Men in Dresses: Between Scandals and Gender-Neutral Fashion
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Its release in December 2020 had the effect of a bombshell in the fashion and publishing world. Appearing dressed in a Gucci dress, singer Harry Styles took center stage on newsstands by gracing the cover of Vogue US. An event that stirred up controversy and sparked debates, with the more conservative individuals shouting scandal and nearly having a heart attack… Two years later, what is the status of genderless fashion?
The evolution of gender in fashion
History in general is fascinating, but the history of fashion is even more so. The evolution of styles, cuts, materials, and colors says a lot about a society and its individuals. Following its changes allows us to see how the norms have evolved over the centuries, or rather, how they have digressed…
Indeed, while in 2022 a man wearing makeup has a 50% chance of being insulted for no reason, during the time of Louis XIV’s court, men would powder their cheeks as a common practice, wear wigs, high heels, and grandiose outfits full of colors and patterns, and be admired for their elegance. Suffice it to say that Bilal Hassani could have overshadowed the king with his fabulous wigs!
Yes, at times like the Renaissance, clothing was relatively similar for men and women. It was only later, during the industrial revolution, that a change in the approach to men’s fashion began to be observed. There was a desire for sobriety, with the three-piece suit becoming the new idea of masculinity. This is how we saw the creation of two distinct wardrobes for men and women, and the beginning of a gap.
Women in pants, women in prison?
Over the years, the gap between what women and men “had to wear” in order to fit into society’s norms has widened. Discrimination and gender separation have been established. Women were thus limited to choosing skirts and dresses, while men could switch from one suit to another.
Pants were off-limits for women, who could even be arrested if they wore them up until the 1950s, and they could also be denied entry to restaurants. Because you see, by wearing pants, they were pretending to be men, Oh scandal…
For example, although it has been allowed since the 1970s in US federal institutions, it was only in 1993 that women were allowed to wear pants in the Senate.
The non-gendered approach to fashion, but still feminized
Popularized by Hollywood figures such as Marlene Dietrich, suits and pants have found their place in women’s wardrobes, with a non-gendered approach to clothing. This is thanks, in particular, to the collections of certain designers.
We have witnessed the popularization of suits, first at Chanel. However, the skirts remained in line with the fashion of the time, with very feminine cuts. Princess Diana, in particular, became an emblem for wearing suits, synonymous with elegance. It was not until 1966 that Yves Saint Laurent made a lasting impression by releasing a collection of women’s tuxedos, ushering in a new era in women’s fashion!
And this change in fashion codes is currently observed in men’s wardrobes, which are acquiring pieces considered “feminine” in order to promote a genderless fashion approach. Whether through small touches, gradually with rings, bracelets, necklaces, nail polish… Or through stronger pieces, such as dresses, heels, or even the trendy piece of 2022, the crop top.
Makeup has also become more popular and tends towards genderless beauty. This is notably thanks to beauty YouTube channels hosted by guys. Also, in pop culture, series like Sex Education have highlighted male characters who wear makeup and pieces “belonging to the women’s wardrobe”. These series have also highlighted the societal obstacles they face.
Closed-mindedness towards non-gendered fashion?
Yes, being a man and wearing a dress or makeup seems to disturb more than one mind in 2022…
Although figures such as Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Freddie Mercury, or even Elton John wear outfits that defy “norms”… As soon as “skirts parade on men’s legs” in the streets, public opinion is outraged. Insults fly, and labels are thrown around. We feel a return to the past, when women used to cover theirs with pants.
However, we are gradually witnessing the opening of minds (although very slowly), allowing men to feel more comfortable wearing all types of clothing and embracing their desire for non-gendered fashion.
Some public figures are bringing attention to controversial looks that are criticized by a large part of society in order to democratize them. This is true in both everyday life and at media events. Jonathan Van Ness, for example, confidently struts in heels, as do Jared Leto, Romain Costa, and Billy Porter at the Oscars.
We also see many “feminine” pieces being included in men’s fashion shows by designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier or Jacquemus. Between dresses, crop tops, bodysuits, skirts, and bridal veils…
Unisex collections: a new approach to non-gendered fashion
This desire to stop stigmatizing pieces as belonging to one gender is also illustrated in unisex collections. They are increasingly offered, often designed by eco-friendly brands, in order to promote timeless fashion with pieces that can last for years.
We also see the emergence of genderless skincare and makeup. One example is Harry Styles’ brand, Pleasing.
Harry Styles, the king of genderless fashion
And speaking of Harry Styles, how can we write an article about genderless fashion and the upheaval of codes without mentioning the new fashion icon?
The little prince of fashion
First known for his place in the music industry, then on the big screen, it is now in the world of fashion that the singer has made a name for himself in recent years. Passionate about fashion, he has an adventurous style profile. Glittery suits, cycling shorts, tight-fitting jumpsuits, dresses, jewelry, nail polish… He plays with pieces and occupies a place as a true icon, with an eclectic range of outfits that have earned him recognition for his position in genderless fashion and visibility.
The controversial cover
Harry Styles’ position and influence in the fashion world even propelled him to the cover of Vogue USA. A major event that sparked numerous reactions. On the one hand, because in its 127 years of existence, it was the first time the magazine featured a man alone on the cover. And the other subject of discussion: the dress with a “very feminine” cut that Harry wore on that cover.
This fashion choice divided public opinion. While some found it normal, others poured out a stream of criticism with their formatted vision and conception of masculinity and virility. Let us remember that a few centuries ago, a man in an extravagant outfit was at the forefront of fashion…
Everyone’s freedom still has many battles to fight against very binary conceptions of fashion.
Ha Ha Ha, the collection by Harry Styles x Gucci
Another achievement for the musician with the release of a collection co-created with Gucci called Ha Ha Ha.
After several appearances wearing pieces from the brand in various campaigns, he is now involved in the creation of the pieces themselves. Through creations centered around suits, mixing British inspiration, classic cuts, and quirky and childlike colors and patterns. Although the collection is for men, the cuts of the pieces, with flared pants and accessories such as small handbags and scarves, make some models androgynous, creating doubt and playing with gender notions present in people’s minds.
