Polaroid Exhibition in Berlin: Instant Magic at the Helmut Newton Foundation
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Polaroid photos have that unique je-ne-sais-quoi: an authentic grain, a touch of nostalgia, and above all, the incomparable magic of watching the image appear before our eyes. And evidently, even the biggest names in fashion photography have not been able to resist their charm.
This week, the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin is celebrating this iconic aesthetic with Polaroids, an exhibition that brings together the works of Helmut Newton alongside other photographers who have explored the Polaroid in all its forms: in unique images, in mosaics, or even in books.
A fascinating dive into the world of Polaroid, which is likely to make you fall in love again with these vintage grain snapshots.
I propose to take you on a little tour of Helmut Newton’s universe and the Polaroid through images.
The Polaroid, that strange object of desire
A pop-culture object par excellence, the Polaroid immediately captivated creators since its inception in 1947 by its inventor: Edwin Land. In 1972, the small camera adopted a foldable shape and, most importantly, became affordable. It was then embraced by a larger number of photographers, both amateur and professional, and made its way into the pages of Vogue, where the most iconic models of the 80s and 90s, such as Cindy Crawford and Eva Herzigová, posed under the lens of Helmut Newton. The photographer quickly connected with the camera, which allowed him to capture a snapshot of the shoot. By the early 1990s, the Polaroid was no longer just a tool for composing images during photoshoots, but became a full-fledged creative tool to capture the authenticity of a moment.
Spontaneity is precisely what Helmut Newton appreciates most, despite facing criticism when the photos presented in his book Pola Woman in 1992 were deemed “imperfect.” “But that’s precisely what was exciting: the spontaneity, the speed.”
The exhibition: Helmut Newton, Vogue, fashion, and the creators
The exhibition is vast, and to be honest, it is one of the most comprehensive dedicated to fashion and the Polaroid. Visitors can wander through hundreds of photographs presented chronologically, tracing the evolution of Helmut Newton’s work, one of the most influential fashion photographers of the 20th century.
The audience discovers the artist’s creative process, from the initial idea to the final image. Some photos still bear Newton’s handwritten annotations, showcasing the Polaroid as a working tool in image composition.
As for the works themselves, they capture both landscapes and scenes of life in bourgeois Parisian apartments, on holiday in the Côte d’Azur, or in Monaco. Newton excels in the art of making these luxurious places feel authentic, while infusing them with a touch of sexiness and impulsiveness. By 1978, his photographs became more staged: more acting, compositions inspired by the Renaissance and Hollywood cinema.
My favorite series? The shots taken by pools in the 80s, where aesthetics and spontaneity intertwine. Some perspectives, crafted with geometric rigor by playing on the blue of the sky or water, evoke the work of American painter Edward Hopper.
Being primarily a fashion photographer, fashion is, of course, a central theme of the exhibition. The audience thus dives into the heart of Parisian apartments where photoshoots for Yves Saint-Laurent take place. Moreover, the couturier, admiring Newton’s work, personally commissioned photos of his collections.
Finally, the exhibition highlights Helmut Newton’s iconic collaborations with major figures in fashion, from Karl Lagerfeld to Thierry Mugler, offering a fascinating glimpse into his influence in the world of luxury and glamour.
Other featured artists
The exhibition continues with the work of other artists who have explored the Polaroid in various forms. Whether realistic or experimental, these snapshots reveal the richness of this medium. Some use it to capture the moment with spontaneity, while others twist it into mosaics or abstract works, playing with the imperfections of the medium.
What stands out is that the magic of the Polaroid lies in its ability to freeze the present moment. Far from being a mere testing tool, it asserts itself as a true artistic medium.
You have until July 25, 2025, to admire fashion through the Polaroid exhibition at the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin.
All information can be accessed here.
