{"id":73858,"date":"2024-08-15T10:03:27","date_gmt":"2024-08-15T09:03:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zine.modalova.com\/zine\/?p=73858"},"modified":"2024-08-15T10:03:27","modified_gmt":"2024-08-15T09:03:27","slug":"meeting-kimono-at-quai-branly-museum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/uk.modalova.com\/zine\/meeting-kimono-at-quai-branly-museum\/","title":{"rendered":"Meeting the Kimono at the Quai Branly Museum"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The kimono, both traditional and sensual<\/strong>, is currently being celebrated at the Mus\u00e9e du Quai Branly Jacques Chirac. Running until May 28, the exhibition takes us on a journey to discover this garment and to engage with Japanese culture. The kimono reveals, through its folds, the art of dyeing, embroidery, but also the articulation of society<\/strong> across eras and its changes. A piece that conveys much, a symbol of tradition<\/strong> and liberation, it also serves as a visual iconography that continues to inspire creators, even today. Join us as we reflect on our visit, along with a small selection of pieces on display.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A privileged encounter with Japanese art<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Today, I escaped to distant lands, yearning to avoid the cold. I made my way to the Mus\u00e9e du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac<\/strong>, heading towards Japan, to explore the kimono and its history, which I realized I knew very little about.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Often used today as a homewear piece<\/strong>, part of the lingerie range, we also wear the garment in the summer as a beach kimono version<\/a>. Alternatively, it can be reimagined in a shorter version, resembling a jacket that retains its iconic folds. The other aspect we associate with it is that of the traditional Japanese garment, which has primarily been transmitted to us through photographs and, more significantly, films. However, although everyone knows the kimono by its familiar appearance across various cultures, few truly know its history<\/strong> and the evolution it has undergone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u00a9 Mus\u00e9e du Quai Branly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Thus, a complete immersion into another universe awaited me at the museum. A stroll of nearly 2 hours, among kimonos more sumptuous than the last, clothing or beauty accessories adorned with meticulous details, painted works and collections of kimono drawings (hinagata<\/em>), and other elements of furniture and decoration that highlight the art and influence of the Japanese piece<\/strong>. Immersed in darkness, we are fascinated by the colors, patterns, and golden inserts that take over the fabrics, all expressed in poetry and delicacy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We experience a meeting with the piece, feeling privileged<\/strong>, especially since Asian fashion is rarely represented in current exhibitions. With wide eyes fixed on the fabrics, we discover how the piece has marked the history of Japan and, in turn, how Japan’s history has evolved the piece<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This complementarity and dual reading<\/strong> is where the exhibition draws its richness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The kimono: a portrait of society through the ages<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The exhibition came to fruition thanks to the work of curators Anna Jackson and Josephine Rout, respectively the chief curator and curator of the Asia department at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London<\/strong>. We thus discover a marriage of period pieces from the London museum, alongside treasures from private and public collections, pieces from contemporary designers, and kimonos made especially for the occasion<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Kimono
\u00a9 Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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Our encounter with the kimono begins in the Edo period<\/strong>, around 1603, when the piece, which means “the thing one wears on oneself”<\/strong>, first emerged on the scene. A symbol of luxury and highlighting one’s social rank, the wearing of the piece, primarily by merchants, was notably emphasized by celebrities and courtesans of the early 18th century, belonging to the world of entertainment and the eroticism of Edo (Tokyo), referred to as “the floating world”<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The second part of the visit takes us to the late 19th century, to the Meiji period<\/strong>, marking the end of the Shogun’s reign (military leader of the country). A moment when production shifted from Kyoto to Edo<\/strong> (Tokyo), and the kimono exported to the rest of the world<\/strong>, bringing it global notoriety. This also propagated the influence of the piece on indoor clothing or decorative elements (tea sets, vases…).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We conclude with the period following World War II, up to the present day. In this period, the wearing of the kimono has become restricted to official events<\/strong>. The piece transitions between a relationship with the past and tradition, facing a more modernized use in pop culture. This can be seen in fashion designers worldwide, as well as in artistic works such as films or musical events.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A connected history<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This journey allows us to discover, on one hand, the evolution of the piece over the years<\/strong>. Between cuts, sleeve lengths, colors, materials, techniques used, patterns and their arrangements, inspirations and references (between the Tale of Ise and the Tale of Genji), styles, sizes, and wearing of the Obi (belt), the accessorization of the kimono, and the different layers… We observe the entire history of the piece through a creative lens that resonates with a more anthropological perspective<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Indeed, the evolution of the kimono is inseparable from the very evolution of society<\/strong>. The piece reflects the desires of the classes of the time and their intrinsic relationships. But also the evolution and deployment of fashion in Japanese cities, the laws established by the regime, and the influences of public figures. The Japanese relationship with the piece, the occasions to wear it, and to whom it was intended… The textile has adapted to the evolving needs and desires<\/strong> of both the Japanese people and the rest of the world over the years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Femmes
\u00a9 Pexels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
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We travel back in time, moving from a scene highlighting merchants in search of new fabrics in the Suruga cho district<\/strong>, to a wedding scene with an exchange of kimonos and colors. We experience immersion in floating scenes, or in the pleasure district, Yoshiwara, where courtesans dressed in kimonos were fashion icons. This influence is also present in the backstage of kabuki theater.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next, we come face to face with a photo of Ziggy Stardust, the alter ego of David Bowie<\/strong>, wrapped in a kimono, alongside another that belonged to Freddie Mercury. Nearby, we discover a model reinterpreted by Alexander McQueen, one designed for Dior by John Galliano, a dress version, and even outfits used in Star Wars: Episode III – Revenge of the Sith<\/strong>…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A fascinating path, where we rediscover both the kimono and Japanese society from a new perspective. It makes us feel all the research, encounters, and travels necessary for the curators to create this captivating exhibition that I highly recommend<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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