The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon – the meeting at the V&A Museum

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The Burberry trench coat, a piece with a rich history, reflects British craftsmanship that is both innovative and timeless. Having evolved from a simple outerwear garment to a true runway icon, the exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon at the V&A Museum revisits the evolution of the coat in celebration of the brand’s 170th anniversary. This installation, which we visited and loved, is open until January 3, 2027.

An exhibition celebrating fashion and the links between Burberry and the V&A Museum

We head towards a small gallery immersed in the soft darkness of its mahogany wood, accompanied by the gentle sound of rain and clouds adorning its ceiling. In this British atmosphere, a knight, holding a checked umbrella, welcomes us: we have indeed arrived at the exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting An Icon.

Open to the public for just over three months, the exhibition is part of a privileged partnership between the fashion house and the South Kensington museum.

Having previously presented exhibitions together, Burberry and the V&A Museum are set to write a new chapter together with the opening of the Burberry Gallery to the public in the fall of 2028, which will offer visitors a new immersion into the museum’s fashion collections.

Thus, as a sneak peek, this spotlight on the brand’s signature trench coat is unveiled before us. The installation is on a small scale, but it depicts a rich history and reveals numerous rarely exhibited pieces and documents, coming from both the Burberry archives and the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum.

From practical to aesthetic: the evolution of an iconic piece of British craftsmanship

The exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon presents itself as a summary of the history of the piece and the craftsmanship associated with it. From its creation in 1879 to its appearance on runways in the 1920s, the evolution of this garment is fascinating to discover.

Initially appreciated for its robust, breathable, and waterproof materials, notably with the creation of gabardine by Thomas Burberry, the trench first established itself as functional outerwear and was used in the trenches by soldiers during World War I.

The items on display at the V&A Museum reveal how the trench gradually slipped into everyone’s wardrobes after the war, adopting a fashion aspect with its checked lining.

Through collections for men, women, and children, as well as the creation of socks and scarves to complete outfits, and even a collection created for winter sports featuring a wool version of gabardine, the Burberry trench coat has established itself as a fashion reference, with an image that was solidified in the 90s, when advertising propelled the brand internationally.

High-end craftsmanship and customer experience

Proud of its made in England craftsmanship since its first model, Burberry showcases various elements highlighting the craftsmanship involved in creating a trench coat. From patterns to insignias, including different buttons and the number of stitches to assemble the collar, it is an art form in itself that is celebrated here.

We also observe period documents, including catalogs and warranty notices, showing us the evolution of customer experience. Between bespoke pieces and restoration services, the premium aspect of the Burberry trench coat is complemented by a high-quality service, explaining its renowned status.

A trench with an iconic and versatile silhouette

The final part of the exhibition takes on the appearance of a runway show, featuring 19 looks drawn from the house’s collections over the past 10 years, imagined by, among others, Daniel Lee and Christopher Bailey.

Carefully selected, these silhouettes showcase how the Burberry trench has managed to maintain its signature lines and elements over the years while reinventing itself through the volumes, prints, and materials used in its creation.

Inspired by the urban environment, London nights, or even embodying a more vintage or bohemian spirit, the Burberry trench is a piece that aims to be, more than ever, versatile and timeless.

The exhibition concludes with a look that beautifully celebrates the union of craftsmanship and fashion. Designed by Riccardo Tisci, this dress from the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2022 collection is born from a deconstructed trench.

Here, the sleeves drape along the hips and the collar is positioned at the front, providing a theatrical note to the bodice and an overall elegant silhouette. The belt, buttons, and pockets remain in their original places, reminding us of the timelessness of the trench in this reinterpretation.

The exhibition The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon is free and is located in the Prince Consort Gallery, on the 2nd floor of the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington, London.