Thierry Mugler’s Bestiary: Couturissime, the Tribute Exhibition
Coming from Montreal to the streets of our capital, Couturissime pays a stunning tribute to the work of Thierry Mugler. An exhibition that we had the chance to discover, and of which we unveil our feelings below.
Thierry Mugler, the artist
Often known for his bewitching perfumes, such as his mythical Angel, this exhibition highlights the entire creative palette of Thierry Mugler. Haute couture, staging, photography, video, perfume, dance… a visionary French designer, he has established a name among the greatest, with an art that is multidisciplinary. A perfect opportunity to discover his imagination coming straight from another dimension, through a hundred pieces, most of which have never been exhibited before.
A unique vision of fashion
Thierry Mugler arrived at a turning point in the history of fashion in Paris. Faced with trendy cities, and showing great know-how, such as New York and Milan, the designer made a name for himself with colleagues, through the chambre syndicale de la haute couture. At a time when François Mitterrand gave fashion a “major art” status, thus transforming Paris into the capital of fashion, the designer brings his fresh and innovative eye.
Unlike other designers, who evolve with models that can accompany men and women in their daily lives, Thierry Mugler stands as a creator of pieces that could be called “eventful”. His pieces transform human silhouettes into sacred creatures. Magazine covers, photo shoots, music videos, themed parties, stage costumes or premieres outfits… These pieces create a spectacle, connecting humans to animals.
Because indeed, in this exhibition, we discover all the inspiration that the designer found in the human silhouette, to transform it and make it mutate into an animal status. Fascinated by the body, textures, movement… The silhouettes of men and women as seen by Thierry Mugler appear as if they emerged from a chrysalis in the form of reptiles, birds, insects or butterflies… Embracing the curves of the body, tight or asymmetrical cuts come and change their appearance, transforming them into creatures from another world. With a mystical, mythological, maleficent, and sometimes erotic spirit, we enter the, admittedly uncommon, mind of this creator.
The ball of textures
Among the pieces on display, we discover two striking collections: The Insects, and The Atlanteans, which highlight aquatic nymphs.
Beyond a striking first encounter with the atmosphere emitted by the pieces, especially when placed next to each other, we are dazzled by their design and the meticulous details.
We observe Thierry Mugler’s work with synthetic materials, in order to reproduce scales, feathers, alongside thousands of crystals and diamonds, and endless lengths of horsehair… Each piece shines with an incredible imagination, but also with remarkable craftsmanship. The cuts of the bustiers recall the backs of insects, while sharp seams and edges give the illusion of fish gills. Innovative techniques are visible, such as pleated organza. Beyond mastery, there is a playful side, where we observe real creative work.
Whether we appreciate the models or not, we can only be impressed by the creative and design work. Each outfit is thought out in detail, down to the seahorse-shaped handbag or pointed ear muffs. The pieces adorning the heads and faces push the boundaries, creating a blurred line between animal and human.
These pieces bring out every animal instinct that lies dormant within us.
A disconcerting scenography
Partly scenographed by Rodeo FX, from Montreal, the exhibition aims to be immersive. We move from one universe to another, with a very particular sensation. All these fantastic universes, placed side by side in timeless settings, take us into another sphere. That of Thierry Mugler. Making us feel a slight discomfort, due to this accumulation of pieces that are so out of the ordinary, the journey through the exhibition is very successful and impacts every spectator, whether they love the designer’s work or not.
Surrounded by other great names in art, his pieces have found their radiance through series of photos, taken among others by Helmut Newton and David LaChapelle. But also, through videos that accompany the visit.
If you are as passionate as we are about fashion exhibitions, we can only recommend the Yves Saint-Laurent museum in Paris. Offering various exhibitions on the work of the couturier, you can discover his workshop there.
On the agenda, you can also find in Paris the exhibition “A History of Fashion” at the Palais Galliera, until June 26th.
